A Beery Wonderful Time In Bruges

Bruges, Belgium hit most American radars in 2008 when the dark comedy, In Bruges, was released. I didn’t watch it, but somehow the idea of Bruges being a tucked away European destination nestled into the furthest reaches of my brain. So this fall, when we needed somewhere easily train-able from Amsterdam, Bruges crawled out of my mind’s shadows and reared its quaintly cobbled, chocolate covered head.

The belfry is a must-see when in Bruges. Luckily, it’s pretty hard to miss.

Bruges was way more charming than Lille, but still really good for only a day or two as it had a touristy no-one-actually-lives-here vibe to it. So…however many days you’d spend at Disneyland, that would be the right number for Bruges too.

Getting Here & Getting Around

There’s a small airport about 15 miles outside of the city, but I’d recommend taking the train in, if you can. You’ll end up right outside the center of things, where you can easily walk to your hotel or take a quick uber ride there. Or drive, of course, if you do that sort of thing.

A Note About Names

Bruges is what English speakers know the city as, and also what the French call it. However, the Belgian/Flemish/Dutch name for it is Brugge. They look similar enough when you see them written, but are actually pronounced quite differently: Bruges = broozh and Brugge = broo’-gha

There are two train stations: Brugge Station and Brugge-Sint-Pieters. Brugge Station is the main one and closer to the city center.

The center of town is very compact and you will be able to get everywhere by foot. In fact, you’ll really want to go everywhere by foot as meandering around is a big part of what there is to do in Bruges!

Bruges, Belgium
There’s a lot to see in Bruges just by wandering around.

Ubers are available if you need them, but there is not really any public transportation.

Where to Stay in Bruges

True to its Disneyland vibe, Bruges isn’t really a place for airbnbs. Brian and I like to rent an apartment when we travel, but in Bruges you’ll want to pick a hotel in the city center. It’ll be for one or two nights anyway, not even enough time to push someone else’s clothes to the back of the closet.

We stayed at the Grand Hotel Casselbergh and it was so nice! They have historic rooms in the main building and more modern ones in an annex. We stayed in a historic room and were worried that it would have an older/mustier feel to it, but it definitely did not. It was a beautiful, comfortable room and the rest of the hotel was stately and just gorgeous. I definitely recommend it.

What to Do in Bruges

Besides meander around, that is. Although truthfully, everything I’ve listed below is stuff you can experience completely by accident just by setting foot outside of your hotel.

Typical Bruges street, left to right: waffles, chocolate, (secret alley to the pub), chocolate, chocolate, lace

1. Climb the Bruges Belfry

There are 366 winding stairs to get to the top, so it’s no walk in the park. Skip the belfry if you have mobility issues as there is no lift (not even an emergency one). Brian’s knee was bothering him so I climbed solo.

They call these the belfry ankle-twisters.

The view from the top of the belfry is beautiful but the exhibits on the way up are also worth stopping for, especially if you’re lucky enough to see the carillon being played live.

View from the Bruges Belfry
Somewhere down there, Brian is eating a croissant.

The carillon is a set of bells (47 in this belfry) that are rung using a keyboard. It is played automatically except on Wednesdays, Saturdays, and Sundays from 11am – 12pm when the city’s official carillonneur, Wem Berteloot, performs live. I had no idea about this but happened to be there on Sunday at 11:20am and it was very cool to experience!

Watching the Carillonneur play in the Bruges belfry.
I’m sure he loved me photographing him (not).

Regardless of when you go, pre-buying tickets will save you time and help you plan.

2. Take a Walk at Minnewaterpark

The belfry may be no walk in the park, but there is a nice one in Bruges, if you do fancy a stroll! Minnewaterpark is sprawling and beautiful, just outside the hustle and bustle of the center. While you’re there, go by the Lover’s Bridge at the south end and walk up to the Sashuis (lock keeper’s house) on the north end. We visited in the fall and the colors were especially beautiful, but it seems like the kind of place that would be magical at any time of the year.

Minnewater Park in Bruges, Belgium
Minnewater Park was full of gorgeous fall colors.
It was raining in the park, but that somehow just made it more romantic.

3. Drink Beer

There are several breweries and lots of pubs in Bruges. Most of them have a pretty extensive list of beers in bottles, and a nice selection on tap. Belgian beer in general, is on the sweeter side and has pretty high alcohol content, although we found smokier and lighter beers too. Here are a few we visited:

De Garre

De Garre is a cozy brown bar whose appeal lies at least somewhat in its very tucked away location: right in the middle of things but down an alleyway that you’d never find unless you were looking. Therefore, when you do find it you feel like you’ve just joined a secret Bruges beer brotherhood.

Alleyway to De Garre pub in Bruges, Belgium
Secret De Garre alleyway. Shhhhh…

The interior looks small at first glance, until you realize that there are two more floors to fill up. We had no wait on a weekday afternoon but our table was one of the last and on the third floor. I’m sure it’s much harder to get a spot here during high season and weekends. I had their brown beer and it was really good. Brian had their namesake “De Garre Triple Ale” and found it cloyingly sweet. But at 11% ABV, by the end of the glass, he was feeling a lot more forgiving.

Bourgogne de Flandres

We got a beer flight at Borgogne de Flandres. Their namesake beer was the best, but the other offerings were pretty good as well. I did not care for their blond though as it tasted soapy.

Bourgogne de Flandres in Bruges, Belgium
Bourgogne de Flandres also distills Genever from their beers.

Borgogne de Flandres offers hearty snacks like soft pretzels, a mediterranean dip platter, and a cheese plate. We were hungry and got all of those things and they were a perfect accompaniment to the beers.

Slide right, then left to see before and after our Bourgogne de Flandres beer flight!

2be

2be is a quirky bar whose claim to fame is a giant wall lined top to bottom with bottles of beer. It is surely an Instagram dream, but more importantly, it’s a real beer selection – with over 1,000 types on offer. However, we did not call their bluff and try to order anything crazy, so who really knows.

2be is right on the canal and we snagged seats up against the railing where we could look across at pedestrians and gaze down at the canal boats going by. This bar wins for its combo of location, vibe, beers, and quirk.

2be bar in Bruges, Belgium
The only thing more fun than drinking beer and people watching is being on a canal while you’re doing it.

Huisbrouwerij de Halve Maan

This is one of the better known and larger breweries. It offers tours and also has a full restaurant. Brian got a Brugse Zot Dubbel that he loved and I tried a Rosé de Bruges which was like an extra yeasty rosé wine. Very tasty.

De Halve Maan brewery in Bruges, Belgium
Our favorite beers were from De Halve Maan brewery.

We had Huisbrouwerij de Halve Maan beers many more times during our stay and they were always top notch. Don’t miss this one!

De Halve Maan built an underground beer pipeline that goes from the brewery to their bottling plant outside of town. You can catch a glimpse of it at the brewery exit.

4. Buy Chocolate

Shoot, I guess you could go ahead and eat it too! There are approximately one zillion chocolate shops in Bruges. (If Bruges was a chocolate bar, it would be 80%.) We bought some at Dumon, and it was really delicious. But aside from the shop that had a bunch of chocolate boobs in the window, all the chocolatiers looked pretty much the same. Pick one or five, go in, buy chocolate. You probably can’t go wrong.

Bruges, and Belgium in general, is known for producing exceptional chocolate. However, it’s also widely exported. So while you may need to come here for some mom and pop shops, it’s pretty easy to get good quality Belgian chocolate right where you live. (Think, Godiva, Leonidas, Côte d’Or.)

5. Overwhelmed by Chocolate? Have a Cuberdon Instead

If you want something that is more unique, try a cuberdon. Cuberdons are little cone-shaped gum drop-esque candies that originated in Ghent. The traditional flavor is raspberry, but other flavors are made now as well.

The cuberdon is also known as neuzeke (little nose) or a priest’s hat.
Jelly filled inside of a cuberdon in Bruges, Belgium.
The gummy filling crystallizes after a few weeks, so unlike Belgian chocolates, they are rarely exported.

Cuberdons have a delicate sugary crust on the outside that holds an almost liquid gummy center on the inside. Because the interior texture begins to crystallize after about three weeks, these candies are rarely exported, which makes them a unique treat to pick up during your visit. They are fun to eat, taste delicious, and are pretty much guaranteed to give you a cavity.

6. Eat Waffles

There are almost as many waffle shops in Bruges as there are chocolate shops. Most of them are snack bars where you buy the waffle “to-go” and eat it on the street. You can get two types of waffles here: Belgian and Liège

Belgian waffles are big and fluffy, with deep square “pockets”, perfect for holding toppings like fruit, syrup, and whipped cream. They’re originally from Brussels, but that doesn’t stop Bruges from selling them!

Liège waffles are also thick, but denser and crunchier than Belgian waffles, due to the coarse pearl sugar in them that caramelizes when cooked. They originated in the south of Belgium, but are also sold everywhere in Bruges. Because Liège waffles are already crispy and sweet, they’re generally consumed without a topping and often as a hand held snack.

Liège waffle in Bruges, Belgium
Fancy Liège
Casual Liège

If you’re American, the Belgian waffles are probably not very novel. The Liège waffles were much better in my opinion, and different from anything I’ve had in the states.

Verdict: Belgian waffles are fine; Liège waffles are amazing. If you are in Bruges, you owe it to yourself to try one of each, but you’ll only get seconds of one kind, I’m betting…

Final Take: Bruges – Short and Sweet

Nighttime view of a canal in Bruges, Belgium
The city of Bruges knows how to light a scene.

Bruges, Belgium is a very cute, compact city that’s well worth a short stay of one or two days, max. Add it to a trip you’re already taking if you can pop over easily by train.

This destination doesn’t require a lot of pre-planning; simply walking around and enjoying the surroundings is half the charm of being here.

Nighttime at the Bruges Belfry.

Have you been to Bruges? Leave me a comment and let me know what you think!

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2 Replies to “A Beery Wonderful Time In Bruges”

  1. A city my wife and I have long wanted to find an excuse to pop into while in Europe – this guide reinforces why! Terrific insight and photos….I appreciate everyday perspective on how to get around, best place stop stay…and of course where to eat and drink!

    1. It’s super accessible by train and if you’re nearby already, it’s definitely worth it! (Only two and a half hours from Paris or Amsterdam).

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